Stems Part 2:

We last left off with laminating strips to build up the stem of the boat. This block of wood will eventually have to be shaped to final form: first, a rabbet joint to accept planking, and then second, fairing of the stem to come to a 3/8” edge so that the boat will be able to slice through the water. This second bit will come later, once the boat has been fully planked.

Leaving the edge of the stem square to help keep everything clamped plumb and level. Notice the cedar strips are seated in the rabbet joint and screwed into place.

The rabbet line (defined by the stem pattern I used) is chopped with a chisel and pared down to 1/4”, the width of the cedar strips. Below you can see me and Teddy chopping down to depth with the chisel

The bevel of the rabbet is then formed as a straight angle from the trailing edge of the stem down to 1/4” depth at the rabbet line. Most of the work involved is just ensuring there isn’t a crown on the rabbet floor.

I’m sure it goes without saying, but it’s essential that the stem be straight, and at 9 degrees to the bottom board. If the stem isn’t straight, the boat won’t track straight.

Here’s some bee content you were probably hoping I’d forget to post about.

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The leading edge of the stem is marked with the center line, and 3/16” on either side of the centerline to mark the 3/8” edge that I will be fairing the curve of the stem down to from the original thickness of 1 inch. This 3/8” edge will be protected by a 3/8” brass stem band when finished.

Two screws attach the stem to the bottom board and we’re ready to go. The end product will look a little something like this:

Test fitting the width of the brass stem band. We’ve skipped a lot of steps here.

Next, we’ll screw the ribs to the bottom board.